Climbing nuts vs hexes reddit. The home of Climbing on reddit.

Climbing nuts vs hexes reddit I cut my teeth on the escarpment with a rack of BD cams (0. 59 votes, 44 comments. 7 and under, everything over 5. Don’t climb with a lesser setup if you don’t need to. The hex is meant to be able to be placed in 4 different attitudes. I'm still pretty new at trad climbing and I was a hex sceptic until the other day - I went climbing somewhere different to my usual haunt - a rather exposed cliff where the erosion had scooped out the most marvellous hex placements - absolutely bomber! An alpine climbing rack should be pretty small and light, you shouldn't have maybe more than around 5 cams and a set of nuts, so carrying a #4, #5, #6 even a #3 seems like a lot of weight and pretty big gear to carry for that type of climbing. The big decided is what kind of rock you climb and being able to see good nut placements. Gear Placements – Hexes and Tri Cams The judgement we need to select a placements for Hexes and Tri cams is very similar to selecting a nut placement. I also run DMM offsets, I feel okay about them. Here's what you need to know. Use high strength 5. Hexes are a great addition and I find that I use my hexes on about half the routes I climb. Save up to 70% off with Climbing deals and discounts from Groupon! Click here to find the best prices and coupons near you today. Single set of cams 0. Very overwhelmed on where to start. Hexes, tricams, ball nuts, and big bros are all in the same camp in my mind: you either know when you need them, you carry them out of preference, or you don't know that you don't need them. Hexes are completely different and mostly used as passive camming placements. Located at the heart of the community, t. Not all cracks are parallel and not all cracks have constrictions. I load my rack onto my harness with biggest cams as far back as possible, and smaller moving forward. 5 mm cord and use some plastic tubing to fill the extra size of the holes in the bigger pieces. Going to invest in the peenuts soon, the small set, beccause offset nuts are so much better than regular ones. 1-rope 60m. If you're starting on Granite splitters as mentioned above however, cams end up being safer and a more useful way to protect. Download the Groupon App today. They are quicker to place and retrieve on average than nuts and hexes. First off is the rock secure than then you need to look at how well the device sits in the shape of crack. Generally use whatever I can place fastest, so use cams regularly, unless there is a slot which I can see a nut will just slip into without faffing. Alpine draws. Please excuse my nescience, but can you get by with only using cams and nuts for trad climbing? (i. 85 votes, 37 comments. What do you like about hexes? What are your favorite hexes? What features do you look for? I am interested in them and want to learn from people with experience (and no one I know is into them or uses them). Plus you can go on eBay and get a whole hex set for maybe $30 Been trad climbing with some buddies for a while now and ready to commit and buy my own rack. You'll dive into the fundamentals with complimentary classes like Belay, Bouldering, and Movement, guided by experienced Discover the Thrill of Climbing High with Day Pass Access: Day Pass with Gear for One or Two Scale New Heights: 2-Week Membership or Climbing Package with Day Pass and Rental Equipment. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Although some people prefer to use hexes instead of the larger size nuts. Nuts and hexes are much more useful as a beginner (maybe not hexes as much). Jun 21, 2022 · Larger Tricams are heavy and often a modern narrow headed cam will do the same job or not big enough compared to the largest hexes/Torque nuts. Here is my thought and correct me if I'm wrong. ) My standard that I usually bring is: BD Nuts. My rack is slowly coming together but right now I am borrowing gear when I lead from my fellow climbers. 8 generally takes great cams or nuts. If the hexes are slung on cord (as they will be, in sizes 4 and up) then you should replace the cord if it's "original". The home of Climbing on reddit. Are T-nuts a good option for bolts that will be screwed in and removed repeatedly? Longevity? I am working on the design of a project that will consist of several parts made of 2x2s. Nuts and hexes all have a curved side, this is for camming them in, a fall will cam them in harder. Sport draws. nut tool. Oct 1, 2011 · In reply to Personal Grader: I think I prefer a cam to nuts when climbing a route where the only protection is available in breaks. I'm running old Tango "made by Hudy Sports" nuts, and I recently realized that they are actually offset in one plane and parallel in another plane. I'm not sure I would recommend them for a beginner but they are essential on moderate routes in places with lots of pin scared but bomber granite. ETA: I’m not concerned about climbing weight as much as overall pack weight for multi-day excursions. 5->3), a set of hexes and a standard set of nuts. Aug 8, 2022 · With no moving parts (hence, “passive protection”), nuts are inexpensive, lightweight, and sturdy. ly/3clZ1pcAt last! I’ve been waiting to do Ughhhhh, the point of the hex has apparently been lost on everyone since they came out in the 70's. It would be interesting to compare real life measurements between these two brands. The larger sizes are worth carrying at certain areas, especially those that have very uneven cracks that form constrictions for the hexes, and have multiple pitches where you are constructing anchors and you can use the hexes in your anchor and save your cams for the actual climbing. The common denominator is that they are removable, as opposed to fixed gear that is permanently secured to the rock (such as bolts). nuts TRADITIONAL CLIMBING, ALSO CALLED TRAD CLIMBING OR JUST “TRAD,” is a particular style of roped climbing that involves placing your own protective equipment as you move up a climb, then removing it when you’re done. DMM offsets are great nuts but there's only 5 of them, so if you buy a set of regular nuts (DMM wallnuts are again awesome, but most brands of nuts are also good to great) you'll have 10 more pieces. In addition, DMM's marketing is full of crap that those four hex's take the place of six hex's. I'd love to try the DMM nuts since everyone and their mom has a hard on for them. Metal doesn't weaken with age, so cabled nuts are fine. 28 votes, 22 comments. e. can you eliminate the need for other stuff like hexes, and tricams?) 177 votes, 35 comments. Step inside Momentum SODO and experience one of Seattle’s premier climbing gyms. As both #11 nuts in both brands are about the same size. Like many things in the climbing community, preference for passive protection is based on what usually amounts to personal opinion. They have strengths and weaknesses, and I wouldn't argue that they're really an acceptable replacement for cams in modern trad climbing. A couple ropes. Save Up to 55% Off Ever wondered what it feels like to conquer a climbing wall? At Rock Spot Climbing, you don’t have to imagine. 2-3, singles #4-6 for cams, a set of hexes, a set of nuts, my trusty yellow ballnut, and about 9 ice screws. Jun 11, 2012 · I grew up trad climbing in Australia in the 90s where bolts were something only occasionally seen as a rap anchor and the standard rack looked like this: 2-3 sets of nuts 1 Full set of slung hexes up to #9 or #10 3-6 cams Lots of knotted slings and loose biners I recall only once or twice seeing In val di mello my perfect (money not an issue) rack would be; Dmm dragon . Friends share racks. 82 votes, 51 comments. There is also a ton of natural protection there as well. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the I second what u/Filipino_1 says about customizing your rack to where you will be climbing. ly/3vhJwabOr buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! http://bit. Save up to 70% on day passes, gear rentals, and more. I am an old school climber and I do not hate hexes. 3-3. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. Get some nuts and that will probably carry you into plenty of 5. Any suggestions on what a good “starter pack” would look like as far different cam/nut sizes? and then I can experiment and add to it based on need from there. With state-of-the-art facilities and walls designed to mimic natural rock formations, this gym offers an exciting challenge for beginners and seasoned climbers alike. Wild Country Rockcentrics are an excellent choice. And I really love them nuts. Whether you’re looking to challenge yourself or just have some fun, they have the perfect climbing adventure waiting for you. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Their One-Day Pass offers a thrilling rock climbing experience for everyone, from beginners to seasoned climbers. So I'm seeking potential burner nuts or replacement for the Trango Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. Buy some nuts and hexes but borrow your friends cams while leading. But if you’re new to trad climbing, how do you make sure that you’re getting the best climbing nuts? With climbing experience, you build your own personal preference. I know you are going off of the measurements of what Trango and Camp give on their web site, but I've always understood that they are exactly the same item made in the same South Korean factory with different branding on them. Before really large cams existed some people would use sawed off pieces of a 2x4 to allow smaller cams to fit in wide cracks. I grew up climbing at the Lake and started off using hexes, nuts, webbing and some cordelette. The extend-able sling setup is brilliant and Oct 31, 2024 · Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. Classic, simple, lightweight, functional pro, Black Diamond Hexes shine in rapidly widening cracks where cams might walk out. Nuts Buying Guide Double Cap Read Time - 9 minutes May 2020 Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. 1-. Hexes clean as quickly as a nut that you need a nut tool to get out, often times quicker. For extra points, place your nuts (and hexes) in the wider orientation so the Nov 5, 2019 · I am somwhat confused about the places of hexes in a modern trad setting. Conquer your next climb today! Step into Adventure Rock Climbing Gym and begin an exhilarating two-month journey into the world of indoor climbing. Oct 28, 2016 · From cams to nuts to hexes, learn the basics of trad gear with tips for buying your first rack. I've been trad climbing for a few months now. Now, as for the type of nut to get, I'd recommend dmm walnuts. 6-sport draws. Jan 8, 2024 · I started climbing at the Avon Gorge, where cams are definitely not recommended as a part of a starter rack. Don't let DMM's marketing fool you though that those four sizes replace six sizes of conventional hexes. Get a guide book to your area and look at the descriptions for the climbs you want to do and then buy the extra gear you need. We have all kinds of really cool cams, and other styles of chocks/nuts/whatever. You don't say where your largely climbing but for the Lake District offsets are a total revelation. it's dangerous. The hex can also be used as a weighted sling (with the hex in the middle, and slings out each end) to help keep directional nuts in place. Save up to 70% on 1,000s of local restaurants, shopping, events & more. 8-alpine draws. 30ft of cordelette. How many slings with a single biner do y’all carry vs alpine draws? I’m tempted to cut down to 6 alpines to save a few oz on biners, as I don’t foresee placing more than 6 nuts per pitch, but I’m kind of nervous about not having enough. Sep 17, 2024 · Hexes (and nuts, too) contact the rock snuggly with no such space for the rope to cause mayhem. Reply reply mattambo_ • They are pretty decent, but in my opinion not the best hex. Sep 14, 2007 · In reply to dpmUK: Prefer Nuts when the placement is good and quick. Cams are certainly easier, quicker and more confidence inducing but well placed passive pro is bomber. I will put a plug in for hexes, they are good if used strategically to keep the rope from falling into a crack. Your introductory membership provides unlimited access to all climbing facilities, allowing you to explore diverse walls and challenges at your leisure. These were fiddly to place for freeclimbing and tended to lift out but could still be used for aid climbing. Offset hexes were the norm when I started to climb in 1977. So, one could argue that each hex has the benefit of being more diverse. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. Sometimes, if there is a long space between bolts or I climb past the anchor, it might be nice to have something that I could secure myself with. I'm torn between rockcentrics,and torque nuts, anyone have preferences? Climbing Sports comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment [deleted]• Additional comment actions On my rack you will find no hexes or tricams but you will find some smaller nuts (a mixed set of bd micros and metolius astro nuts). 51 votes, 73 comments. when I'm not climbing that style, like if I'm on aeolian granite or breccia I'm largely loving cams Sep 16, 2011 · Small Hexes vs nuts: in small placements nuts are going to be easier to seat, trying to cam a small hex is (probably) a nightmare so you might as well use a nut (as an uncammed hex is just a nut anyway). Folks have explained to you the nut but the wired hex is older. I keep smaller nuts in one key, bigger nuts in another, smaller hexes on a third, bigger hexes on a fourth. Hexes Climbing hexes are large hexagonal shaped wedges of metal that you slot into constrictions in wider cracks, to provide protection when traditional climbing outdoors. I keep larger nuts on the left, smaller nuts and smaller hexes on the right. Aid only nuts are set aside on a carabiner. 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Might be interesting to make some funky nut or hex shapes, like extreme offsets or taper. nuts and hexes are stronger and lighter than cams, they continue to work in icy conditions, they require more skill to place, and forcing yourself to learn this technique on easyish ground is a good idea, you can afford more gear for a given amount of money, so can potentially place more pieces on a given pitch. Placing nuts are intuitive, they are inexpensive, and will last you a long time. The downside being that hexes are easier to place incorrectly. I climb mostly in Utah in rock canyon and Ibex with the occasional moab trip. Would it make sense to start with a set of offsets, or are they considered more of a "supplementary" piece like tricams or hexes, where they don't see as much use but you're glad you brought them Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. 10a and you want bombproof security you’d do well to bring hexes. Don't let people who don't know what they're talking about scare you. This will teach you far more about trad climbing strategy, placing gear and the intricacies of placements on different rock types and routes, than climbing protection: when to use cams vs. Where as your standard nut has two. At crags with splitter cracks, I obviously place more cams. I'd get a full rack of nuts (if you want to save money maybe not buy the first couple small guys), the mid to small sizes in hexes and webbing/cordelette. Nuts and Cams for Sport Climbing Hey Everyone, I've been top rope and lead climbing for a few years outside, and I just started to wonder if it might be worth buying a few Trad pieces. We tested each through a wide range of fissures, scar pins, parallel-sided cracks, around blocks, and the like. Find great deals on the best activities & things to do. See full list on rei. I'm just starting to build a rack, and wanted to get an idea of if they're still… Jan 24, 2023 · Trad climbing involves a wide array of gear, including nuts, hexes, cams, Big Bros, and more, to ensure climbers stay safe. If you’re not climbing much above 5. We used each while ascending wind-blown alpine Another plus one for DMM offsets. Just use the sideways long end of the nut tool and smack the hex as hard as you can from the wire or sling side like your hitting something with a hammer. 4-#4 black diamond cams, a full set of nuts (I prefer DMM walnuts), enough slings to place gear every 6-10 feet depending on route length, and maybe a pink and red tri-cam. You need both. extra lockers and non-lockers. While hexes may be used on routes 5. What nut sets do you own? And your opinion of it. I avoid these placements to begin with, but it's a good bonus to know about. Most nut placements here take offsets much better than straight ones. But I personally love smaller BD hexes for nuts. They eventually became ‘hex centric’ in that each side was of a different length. Jun 13, 2018 · There are also definitely some climbing areas I've been at where having the widest diversity in gear types was ideal, since there can be times where a hex is quicker, easier, and more secure than a cam. com Stoppers =nuts (BD brand). 75 Wild country friends 1-4 Dmm wall nuts 1-11 or wild country rocks 1-11 Maybe doubles of the mid sizes of nuts if you do long pitches. Feb 2, 2024 · These origins and the heavily continued use of passive protection in England today, produce some of the best climbing nuts for trad climbing available today. There are many different types of trad pro, including cams, nuts, hexes, Tricams, Ballnuts and more. Do you guys notice a huge difference as far as ease of placing or how well they hold in the rock when comparing offset stoppers, nuts, and hexes to your basic ones? Would you choose to use one exclusively over the other or a mix of both? Cheers. g Hargreaves Original on nuts certainly requires big nuts. Wouldn't it be best to start on hexes and nuts? I got a rack that can almost do it all right now. Experience Climbing with an Intro to Bouldering or Rock Climbing for One or Two at Sender One (Up to 51% ) Reach new heights for less with Groupon! Discover amazing deals on rock climbing in New York City. In my experience, they aren't so commonly used anymore. I've got a full set of cams, but haven't bothered to buy nuts yet because everyone I've climbed with has a set. A single rack of . Easy to rack and pla May 1, 2022 · On the other hand, trad racks for lead climbing consist of quickdraws, runners and slings for clipping pro and building anchors, and an assortment of protection devices (cams, nuts, hexes, and so on), a cleaning tool, and more. There are various types of climbing hexes available in many different brands, colours, shapes and sizes. Reply buyabighouse • Additional comment actions The parrel cracks you get in your region are really hard to protect with nuts and hexes and cams are just generally nice. Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. 3-3 Wild country zero friends . Obviously I should have my own though. With a subtly asymmetrical cross-section, flat sides and slight end-wise taper, they offer three different widths when turned on their axes and another when placed end-wise. I don't believe it. That being said, if you like hex's the Torque Nuts do compliment a set of Rockcentric's well as there are some slight sizing differences between the two brands. Certainly a good deal better than Black Diamond Hexcentrics, and far, far better than Metolius Ultralight Curved hexes. They just seem to fit into placements better. Edit: cams are there for expediency too. I am somwhat confused about the places of hexes in a modern trad setting. We have been climbing for a while, guiding professionally I respect that dmm offsets are probably better but a literal machine nut on string will make bomber gear on solid California granite in exfoliation regions where you get a lot of segmented cracks with good tapers too them. That said, folks climbed a lot on nuts, hexes, and tricams before modern camming devices were invented. Learning to properly place protection is an essential skill as you progress as a trad climber. Why aren't hexes (torque nuts) more common on trad racks? I'm learning trad and I've had exposure to a lot of different gear. Basically, cheap, worse cams. I find it interesting that the ball nuts are different sizes. and everything else necessary for basic trad climbing (nut tool, non-lockers, lockers, etc. Another upside of using strictly hexes and nuts is that if/when you decide to invest in cams you have a better understand of where works well for what kind of gear. doubles #. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. I think the camming action is exellent, and it comes in handy in Squamish often as the cracks can get a little uneven. In order to place trad gear efficiently and securely, you must The first nuts used in climbing were literally just that; machine nuts of varying sizes slung with nylon cord. If you plan to travel down to the gunks (worth it) buy a set of tricams (consider double pinks). It will need to be assembled/disassembled repeatedly over the years. I've seen both positive and negative about hexes and nuts. Nov 19, 2025 · Climbing nuts are one of the first pieces of trad protection climbers will purchase. And yes we are scared of falling. Whether you’re trying bouldering for the first time or working on advanced routes, the facility provides the perfect setting to push your limits. Hexes were an extension of the machine nuts that climbing started using for protection. Place a hex (okay, fine, a nut) at the apex of a roof or when the angle mellows out to keep the rope running smoothly. As noted by u/muenchener it might date from the late 70's but I suspect it's from earlier then that. I only have about 2 years experience climbing and 1 year leading. I can imagine with a little experimentation you might find something that is great on your local rock type. e. Came across these old (70s?) Chouinard nuts and hexes on Craigslist. What We Offer One-Day Indoor Climbing Adventure Rock is a premier indoor climbing facility that provides an exhilarating haven for climbers of all levels. If getting hexes I would say DMM torque nuts are the most versatile (but also seem engineered for maximum cowbell). Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. Most trad here in Stockholm is face climbing broken up granite and I personally place my HB offsets more than even cams. 10 trad climbing as well as alpine stuff. I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). That's about it though. Find it difficult to justify standing still for ages trying to fiddle in nuts or hex's when a cam can be placed in seconds. DMM Offsets. In a nut shell tricams are too complex and specialist for most people where a standard nut will do the job for most placements in the smaller sizes and hexes or cams in the larger sizes. For me they're more versatile than regular nuts. Nut and Hexes Ranging in size from the thickness of a matchstick to the size of your clenched fist, nuts (also called chocks, wires or stoppers) and hexes are inexpensive pieces of trad protection. I have black diamond stoppers, and I'm looking into wallnuts, also not sure what I want for hexes. So I saw that article from a week ago saying hexes make you look like a noob. Instead, the rope flows over them, pushed to the surface of the crack by the unmoving mass of metal. So far my favorite things to place have been the DMM torque nuts (hexes), which have been quicker for me to place and much more solid when pulled from any direction. May 31, 2020 · Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! http://bit. One thing to note is that if you have a full set of DMM Wallnuts, you can expand your nut selection by getting Wild Country Rocks sizes 12, 13, and 14. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. 1. Typically you wont They place easier and set harder. I'd certainly round out your cam selection down to maybe the gold dragonfly before ever thinking about hexes for summer rock. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Once placed you can set them fairly hard. . vjqr inkk lgaq zdos rxbc xzlk gtgu ittzen oyj hlcmc spiob xjbrw izwy ttnk xixc