E11 climbing grade. Jack Geldard takes a look at top end trad routes.
E11 climbing grade That's not how UK trad grades work. While working on the first ascent Dave Macleod would hike to Sep 28, 2023 · Crown Royale is an E11 Trad climb at Profilveggen in Norway. Nov 13, 2023 · This article provides an in-depth look at the Yosemite Decimal System, a widely-used grading system for rock climbing and hiking routes. ???????????? Jun 8, 2020 · Website DescriptionWhat’s in a grade: How do grades work and do they matter? Monday 8th June 2020 How do Climbing Grades Work? Climbing has a bewildering array of grading systems. May 19, 2025 · The ascent, Lexicon's sixth, is the hardest trad flash of all time, and took place with no prior inspection of the holds. Traditional climbing was once the dominant form of free climbing but since the mid-1980s, sport climbing — and its related form of competition climbing — became more popular for single pitch routes, and all technical grade milestones from 8a+ (5. Sep 29, 2023 · Crown Royale is an E11 Trad climb at Profilveggen in Norway. Scary doesn’t necessarily mean lethal, however, and subsequent videos of the crux whip have highlighted the wiggle room within the E11 grade. Many areas in the world have developed different systems. May 24, 2025 · With his flash ascent of the difficult trad route Lexicon E11 in the Lake District, Adam Ondra once again shows that he is among the absolute elite in traditional climbing. Knowing how one method relates to another is sometimes difficult. The climb starts by climbing the majority of Requiem (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up Dec 10, 2019 · Having checked it out on an abseil rope myself, I can vouch that the difficulty of the climbing equates to F8c/8c+ sport climbing, and that is more than enough to earn the E11 grade if it is protected with trad gear, regardless of the fall potential. Fifteen years later, Neil Gresham made the first ascent of Lexicon in the Lake District, grading E11. Still to this day it is considered one of the most difficult trad routes ever, and in ten years it has only counted four repetitions. The climb starts by climbing the majority of Requiem (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up The rock climbing grade 5. Research your climbs with our climbing grade conversion tool now. In principle, any E-grade can also be perfectly safe, it just needs to be physically harder than a scary route of the same grade. Gresham is no stranger to cutting edge ascents, having climbed Rise and Shine (WI 7) in Kandersteg, Switzerland, established Sabotage (8c+/ 5. Jun 23, 2025 · Billy Ridal has made the eighth ascent Rhapsody (E11 7a) at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland. His first ascent of Rhapsody E11/7a in 2006 was an historic event, offering 8c/+ climbing with the prospect of a 20m fall onto small gear. 13a (7c+). Whether you're a seasoned climber or a newcomer to the sport, understanding the different climbing grades and difficulties is crucial for selecting routes that match your skill level and ensuring a safe and enjoyable experience. 8a suggests a new grade conversion; E12 = 9a, E11 = 8c+, E10 = 8c, E9 = 8b+, E8 = 8b, (For lower grades it seems like the E-onsight grading system works fine. The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) is a five-part grading system used for rating the difficulty of rock climbing routes in the United States and Canada. 13c) onwards were set on single-pitch sport-climbing routes. The line then waited an incredible 10 years before receiving a second ascent from Carlo Traversi. Sep 8, 2021 · On September 4, Neil Gresham made the first ascent of an E11 7a at Pavey Ark. Trotter had attempted Rhapsody, the first trad climb to receive an E11 grade back in 2007 without success. 4 in mountain boots and be comfortable climbing rock, snow and ice in crampons, and fit to go climb for 4-6 hours AD (assez difficile): Fairly hard. As a beginner rock climber or foreign climber trying to climb in America, you'll want to become familiar with the Yosemite Decimal System, or YDS. S. Whether you're a beginner or a seasoned climber, our climbing grade conversion cha Online Conversion Tool for Climbing Grades & Bouldering Grades: Trad Grade, UIAA, French Sport Grade, Boulder Grades, American Scale & many more. Nov 14, 2022 · Meltdown is an E11 Trad climb. With its grade of E11- the maximum difficulty on the British trad grading system- it had in those days marked a new difficulty for this type of climbing. Originally ascended in 2006 by Dave MacLeod, the route has since been climbed by several notable climbers, including Sonnie Trotter, Steve McClure, Jacopo Larcher, James Pearson, and others. It is an open-ended system that runs from Easy (doable by virtually anyone) to E11 (which has been climbed by Rhapsody is a trad route at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland first climbed by Dave MacLeod in 2006. 14a) graded route (Darwin Dixit in Margalef, in 2008), [1][2] and for climbing one of the hardest traditional climbing routes in the world (Rhapsody on Dumbarton Rock, graded E11 7a, in 2006). Free, instant climbing grade converter to help you understand foreign grading systems. 14c) at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland. The numerical technical grading describes the hardest (crux) move on the climb. 13d and repeated E-desperates throughout the British Isles. Get help comparing bouldering, sport, and trad climbing grades. Aug 24, 2025 · Understanding the Yosemite Decimal System: A Guide to Rock Climbing Grades in North America. 14c sport in Spain and established V13. That Neil continually sets and delivers such extending goals is quite remarkable. 14c climbing with 70-foot fall potential — Dave MacLeod succeeded only after two years and numerous ankle-smashing rippers. Australian: used in Australia and New Zealand, this system ranges from 1 (easiest) to 35 Climbing is an exhilarating and challenging sport that attracts adventurers from all walks of life. Convert North American climbing grades to UK and European scales, and compare bouldering V-grades to roped climbs. Introduction www. Created in 2006 Dave MacLeod with Rhapsody (E11, 7a) on the Scottish Dumbarton Rock an ultimate trad test piece. Jul 8, 2025 · How does the traditional grading system work? The system for grading traditionally protected climbs in BMC guides is the traditional, two-part British grade, a combination of the adjectival and technical grades. Australian: used in Australia and New Zealand, this system ranges from 1 (easiest) to 35 Jack Geldard takes a look at top end trad routes. After a handful of working sessions spread Mar 25, 2024 · Learn how to convert climbing grades, common challenges, and resources for accurate conversions. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Developed in the 1950s in Yosemite National Park, this system was created by rock climbers to standardize ratings for various routes. It is a grade that only a select few climbers in the world have been able to achieve. —all aim to reflect a combination of physical and technical demands. The route, which can roughly be translated to 5. It set a grade milestone in Nov 5, 2020 · Do you know why a something described as 'Very Difficult' is easier than something labelled 'E1'? Or why the grade E2 5a can elicit shudders whereas HVS 6a brings forth a rueful smile?!In order to understand UK trad grades, it’s useful to also understand the concept of the French grading system (usually used for sport and indoor climbing). E11 strives to get inside the head of its first ascentionist, the understated yet quite remarkable Dave MacLeod. Learn how bouldering V-scales compare to YDS for route climbing, understand the journey from indoor to outdoor climbing, and explore international grading systems. climber Billy Ridal has repeated Rhapsody, the first climbing route to receive an E11 grade. K. It's the system used to grade the technical difficulty of rock climbs. E12 = 9b+. It may seem confusing to those not used to the system, eg, climbers who might have only Nov 1, 2024 · The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) is a grading scale that evaluates the difficulty of hiking and climbing routes, especially for mountaineering and rock climbing. Our climbing grades convertors (both classic routes and boulders) have been made by great climbers, traveling and climbing all around the world for more than 15 years. Coming from our frustrations of always trying to figure out what grading systems are used in which country and what do they mean in your own system, we have created this simple but hopefully helpfull comparison table. co. Climbing is fun, and there’s no denying that. There are E9's that are French 7c death routes - Indian Face the obvious example - and there are E9's that To achieve E11 would first require consolidation of the E10 grade - repeats, consensus amongst those capable that a new level of difficulty/danger has been achieved, more routes and so on. You will have the opportunity to try different climbing techniques on natural; Smearing slabs, lay-back flake, arete and face climbs, off-width crack through to proper chimney cracks. These include everything from seriousness and sustained gradient, to technical difficulty, exposure, strenuousness and rock quality. The rock climbing grade 5. . A project of Ron Kauk's before he suffered an injury which stopped him trying the line. There are grade systems for bouldering, grade systems for sport climbing, grade systems for aid climbing and so on but even grade systems for the same style don’t always translate well between each other. Currently there The rock climbing grade 5. At the time the route ushered in a new era of difficulties in Great Britain and with its whopping E11 grade - the equivalent of 8c+ climbing but on gear - it was the most difficult in the British trad system. Discover hidden site aspects with multiple Climbing, Caving and Abseil activities. I run rock climbing courses in the UK and abroad and have grown up from a young age steeped in the world of trad rock climbing and my aim in this blog is to give you a brief overview of the basic rules governing the UK Mar 5, 2023 · Rhapsody was first climbed by Dave Macleod in 2006 and was the first route in the world to be given the grade of E11. The difference in difficulty between a 5. Jul 20, 2020 · The adjectival grade is the first part of the grade, which gives a sense of the overall difficulty of the climb and is influenced by various aspects. If in doubt when visiting a new area, err on the side of… Apr 22, 2024 · Together with first-time climber Dave MacLead, he sets off to Dumbarton Rock to get a feel for the “boldness” of the first route rated E11. 11d (7a) and 5. May 22, 2025 · Slightly inspired by a side topic on the Adam Ondra flashes E11 thread I decided to look up the equivalent grades on the rockfax grade comparison chart. 14bR] standard with a very long fall and big swing Jun 10, 2024 · Grade Converters Bouldering and Lead Climbing Grade converters and other tools for rock climbers. Apr 29, 2024 · Learn everything about climbing grades and quickly convert any climbing rating with our free climbing grade conversion chart. I wondered if I Sep 25, 2023 · Pop in a climbing grade, see its global equivalent, and climb on with gusto. It was one of the hardest trad routes in the world at the time and maintains a substantial reputation, featuring hard, intense climbing with the potential for huge falls. 12b, also known as 7b in the French grading system, is considered to be a very challenging level of difficulty in the sport of rock climbing. Including Grade Wike & Table. In 2016, Alex sent me a link to his page on Bouldering Grades, which he compares with the Yosemite Decimal System and sport climbing. If you already feel confident in your knowledge of Feb 26, 2021 · A guide to the eccentric world of climbing grading, looking at grade comparison, what the different systems mean and why it's all just so unusual! Mar 19, 2024 · The British E-grade system is rumored to be one of the most sophisticated methods for classifying trad routes, yet it is also surrounded in myth, causing many new climbers to be baffled by its workings. Steve McClure (born 25 July 1970) is a British rock climber and climbing author, who is widely regarded as Britain's leading and most important sport climber for a period that extends for over two decades, starting from the late 1990s. Safety is […] Aug 27, 2024 · Website DescriptionJames Pearson suggests hard E11 for Echo Wall Tuesday 27th August 2024 A few weeks after his second ascent of Echo Wall on Ben Nevis, Scotland (news and interview here) James shares his thoughts on the route and, in particular, the grade. It may seem confusing to those not used to the system, eg, climbers who might have only Jun 22, 2025 · U. Are E grades working up at E9/10/11? Do we really have E11? E grades are for the on sight, right? This is an in-depth article with input from E11 tells the story behind the first ascent of Rhapsody, a route considered to be the hardest traditional rock climb in the world. [1] It was first devised by members of the Sierra Club in Southern California in the 1950s as a refinement of earlier systems from the 1930s, [2] and quickly spread throughout North America. These grades provide a shared language for climbers, making it easier to compare A list of all the trad routes E10 or harder that have currently been climbed, including details of the first ascent. This grade falls under the VIII- category in the UIAA grading system and is equivalent to E3 5c in the British UK grading system and 22 in the Australian grading system. Please remember that grading a route is very subjective to the location and the person giving the grade. Any grade can be so bold you're practically soloing, the climbing just needs to be really physically easy for the grade. Nov 1, 2007 · At E11 7a, Rhapsody requires 5. Feb 9, 2024 · Bouldering grades can either be the bane of your existence or can push you to climb harder. But by not paying attention to the rock climbing grade, you’re essentially risking your safety and that of Mar 5, 2024 · Dave MacLeod - E11 trad climber, author of two bestselling books on training for rock climbing, climbing injuries and climbing coaching. The YDS scale divides routes into classes based on the physical effort, technical skill, and risk Apr 4, 2023 · So while sport climbs have progressed from 8b+ to 9c, in the same timespan British grades have only moved from E9 to E11, despite an unarguable improvement in overall ability: this generation of climbers are operating at superior French grades than the generation of the late '80s and early 9'0s were. Last April Britain's Mathew Wright successfully headpointed Rhapsody, the E11 7a trad climb located at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, first ascended by Dave Macleod in 2006. The first ascensionist of the E11 grade and arguably one of the most successful British trad climbers in climbing history is Dave Macleod. It was the first time that this level of difficulty was specified for a self-protected route. The climb starts by climbing the majority of Requiem (around 7c+ to here) to a poor rest before an intensely technical sequence up Mar 31, 2022 · In 2006, Dave made the first ascent of Rhapsody at Dumbarton Rock, grading it E11 7a — the first of its grade in the world (UKC article). Apr 4, 2023 · Website DescriptioneGrader launched - Rebooting E-Grades with linear consistency Tuesday 4th April 2023 Why it’s maybe necessary, and how it can be done. Overall, the 5. At E11, Lexicon is one of the hardest trad routes in the world, and was first climbed by Neil Gresham in September 2021. The adjectival grades range from Easy to E11, while the technical grades range from 3 to 7b. First ascensionist Dave MacLeod chose not to grade the route he climbed in 2008 but said it was the hardest he had done at the time and Dave Mac Leod climbed ‘Rapsody’ (Technical Grade: 7a, Adjectival Grade: E11) in 2006, the most difficult route to date. This Convert rock climbing grades between French, YDS, British, and UIAA systems. Dave has established or repeated almost all the hard climbing in Scotland, from 8B+ boulder problems to 9a sport routes to E11 trad routes to grade XI winter routes. 14 with an 80-foot fall potential, was his first of the grade. Jan 28, 2022 · Climbing grades describe the objective difficulty of a climb and are organized into grading systems based on the climbing style and the region. e. Rhapsody is a trad route at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland first climbed by Dave MacLeod in 2006. the opposite of free climbing), the most widely used system is the A-grade system (e. 14c (8c+), Rhapsody was the world's hardest traditional route. The classic misconception is that routes with higher E-grades are always more dangerous, yet, in reality, the E-grade blends difficulty and danger in order to make an overall assessment. Convert a climbing grade with easeTo convert grades, enter the grade into the input, select the grade system (french, yosemite, v-scale) and hit "convert" Most grade systems are specific to a certain style. 15c grade represents the pinnacle of difficulty in rock climbing. The most commonly used On 16/05/2025 Czech climber Adam Ondra made the first-ever flash ascent of a British trad climb graded E11, Lexicon at Pavey Ark in England. Nov 18, 2020 · In 2008, Sonnie Trotter repeated Rhapsody E11 and reflected on the meaning of "E" grades in the 2008 December issue of Gripped magazine Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. He also has climbed 5. Jun 5, 2023 · If you have done any climbing, either in the gym or outside, you will most likely have run into the concept of climbing grades. Familiarise yourself with the differences. Echo Wall is a hard trad climb located high on Ben Nevis and established by Dave MacLeod in July 2008. This British (Traditional): this complex system includes two grades: the adjectival grade (overall difficulty) and the technical grade (specific moves' difficulty). It’s intuitive if you’ve climbed in the UK, but puzzling at first glance elsewhere. Each one is largely assigned to a particular discipline, and understanding how they work and relate to one another can be very confusing. In this comprehensive guide, we'll delve into the intricacies of Dec 28, 2024 · Bewildering, subjective, unnecessarily complex, just plain mad! All of these insults have been leveled at the British grading system for traditional (trad) rock climbing. g. Bouldering grades are a way to measure the difficulty of climbing problems, helping climbers gauge challenges and track progress. Jun 15, 2022 · E11, for those unfamiliar with British trad-climbing grades, is a fearsome number that roughly translates to scary 5. Oh yeah, it's also packed full of According to two contributors, the european rating system is less useful because it is too subjective and the alaskan rating system is more useful because it is less subjective. If I believe the chart then for my sport grade I should be climbing several whole trad grades harder. It is an incredibly bold route, featuring climbing around french 8c in a position where you can't afford to fall off. For those not familiar with UK trad, E11 7a is (at least to my knowledge) the hardest grade that's currently been given to a route. ) Climbing Grade Conversion is a versatile tool that is designed to assist climbers in navigating the complex grading systems used in rock climbing and bouldering. 14c) in Malham, UK, and Mar 19, 2024 · The British E-grade system is rumored to be one of the most sophisticated methods for classifying trad routes, yet it is also surrounded in myth, causing many new climbers to be baffled by its workings. Rock climbing grades are a means of estimating the difficulty of a climb. Beth Rodden then invested substantial time and energy in to the line before making the first ascent in 2008. The E grade system has been criticized in recent years for being non-linear, especially in the upper grades where a wide range of difficulty Rhapsody is a trad route at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland first climbed by Dave MacLeod in 2006. Oct 30, 2008 · New conversion for E-grades The current grade conversion between the upper E-grades and sport climbing is not correct or all these upper E-grades have been devaluated, i. First climbed by Dave MacLeod in the spring of 2006, Rhapsody was the first route in the world to be given the grade of E11 7a, and remains one of just a handful of trad routes at the grade. 13d route, climbers must possess advanced climbing skills and a deep understanding of movement and body positioning on the wall. The route's location high on Ben Nevis necessitates some tricky tactics to make the most of the fleeting season. On one hand, sport climbing grades provide a scale of difficulty which The grade comparisons indicated in these tables will not always be exact. To tackle a 5. 14. A3+), which was recalibrated in the 1990s as the "new wave" system from the legacy A-grade system. 12d (7c) and 5. 12a (7a+), for example, is the same as the difference in difficulty between a 5. Indeed, as there are many climbing styles, many grading systems have emerged throughout climbing history to cover the different types of movement and technologies climbers use to ascend varied terrains like rock, ice, and snow. Local anomalies exist within countries using the same system so attempts to correlate between different systems, which frequently originated around different styles of climbing, stand little chance of tying together. The app is suitable for both novice and experienced climbers and offers a user-friendly interface that is easy to navigate. Climbing grading systems are an integral component of our sport. An E-grade (Extreme) captures the route’s overall challenge (exposure, gear, commitment) while encouraging real-world decision-making. In aid climbing (i. Over the past 17 years, several climbers have repeated it, including Sonnie Trotter, Steve McClure, Jacopo Larcher, James Pearson and more. 11a, also known as 6c in the French grading system, is a challenging grade that requires expert level skills and experience. Jan 29, 2023 · On June 9, 2008, Sonnie Trotter made the second ascent of Dave MacLeod’s 35-metre Rhapsody E11 7a (5. There is a risk of a 20 m fall onto a narrow ledge. Aug 27, 2024 · The Extremely Severe grade is also broken down into 10 further sub-grades from E1 to E11. He has free-soloed 5. Used in: UK traditional climbing Format: Mod, Severe, VS, HVS, and E1 to E11 The British grading system blends physical difficulty with seriousness. UIAA Grades of Difficulty in Rock Climbing Background (continued) Another important step the UIAA did after a few years was introducing the abbreviation EX to the top step of global evaluations, certifying in this way the raise of the level of performance even in alpine-style routes. Dave has also climbed another route, Echo Wall, which he said was harder than Rhapsody, but he didn't grade it, and as far as I'm aware no Rhapsody, given the grade of E11 7a, is the direct finish to Dave Cuthbertson's 1983 route Requiem (E8 6b) at Dumbarton Rock, a 70 metre volcanic plug northwest of Glasgow (Dumbarton Rock profile). Climbing Grades Compared>> Online Conversion Dave MacLeod (born 17 July 1978) is a Scottish rock climber, ice climber, mixed climber, and climbing author. Lexicon crosses briefly through the easier climbing on Impact Day (E8 6c) E8 6c, but includes an independent start and finish, making it a new, distinct line. Apr 5, 2023 · So why the need for this new tool? The French System and Yosemite Decimal System are linear. Rhapsody is a 35-metre (115 ft) long traditional climbing route up a thin crack on a slightly overhanging vertical basalt rock face on Dumbarton Rock, in Scotland. So why haven't E grades progressed? Jan 28, 2022 · Qu'est-ce qu'un niveau d'escalade ? Les grades d'escalade décrivent la difficulté objective d'une escalade et sont organisés en systèmes de grades basés sur le style d'escalade et la région. uk After being established in September 2021, through the following autumn and spring, Lexicon – the UK’s latest ‘E11’ saw what felt like a flurry of repeats, by some of the most experienced hard Trad Be able to rock climb up to 5. Two weeks later, Steve McClure made the second ascent, but not before taking taking a huge seventy foot fall from the route's penultimate move. Lexicon is an E11 Trad climb at Pavey Ark in the United Kingdom. Sep 14, 2021 · Fully aware that a consensus grade won’t come until Lexicon sees one or more repeats and that trad grading seems to have become ‘stuck’ in recent years, Neil has opted to grade Lexicon E11 7a; as such, it’s now one of the hardest trad routes in the country. In 2017, he created Rainman, Britain's first-ever 9b (5. egrader. JAMAICA EAST SIDE TRUCKERS / S5-E11 / TRUCKS CLIMBING STEEP GRADE Real Torch 620K subscribers 307 British (Traditional): this complex system includes two grades: the adjectival grade (overall difficulty) and the technical grade (specific moves' difficulty). He returned for four weeks the following spring to piece together the intricate moves above run-out gear. What this rainforest site lacks in sheer height makes up for in variety of routes. The only other route of the same grade is Rhapsody, first climbed in 2006 by Dave Macleod, and documented in the film E11. Below is a In 2006 I climbed the first trad route in the world to get the grade of E11. Please keep in mind that this table is only to be used as a guideline What's the Deal with British Trad Climbing? || E Grades Explained Little explainer of British trad grades, enjoy! Jul 8, 2025 · How does the traditional grading system work? The system for grading traditionally protected climbs in BMC guides is the traditional, two-part British grade, a combination of the adjectival and technical grades. IMPORTANT – Below is a very rough table and it is impossible to provide an accurate conversion between technical difficulty of the hardest climbing – a sport grade/UIAA/USA grade – and overall difficulty of the full route experience from approach through climbing, conditions and descent – Alpine Grade. MacLeod is known for being the second-ever person to free solo a 8b+ (5. While the grading systems vary by region—like the Fontainebleau system in Europe or the V-scale in the U. The challenges presented by this grade push climbers to their physical and mental limits, making it a truly awe-inspiring and mythical achievement in the climbing community. [3][4] Jan 1, 2025 · There are several methods of grading how difficult a climb is. Two weeks after Neil Gresham claimed the first ascent of Lexicon E11 7a in September 2021 (UKC news), Steve McClure repeated the line, taking a 70ft whipper in the process during an earlier attempt (UKC news). When Scottish climber Dave MacLeod made the first free ascent in 2006, it became Britain's first-ever E11-graded route, and at the grade of 5. Oct 23, 2023 · Discover the intricacies of climbing grades with our comprehensive guide. “I have named the route Rhapsody and graded it E11 7a, the climbing is about F8c [5. Told in an offbeat dramadoc style the film attempts to understand what it takes to climb a route of this standard. 15b) sport route, and by that stage was responsible for developing the majority of routes graded 9a (5 Jul 29, 2025 · Knowing the rock climbing grades, what they mean, and how the different scales compare is essential for any climber Climbers attempting routes at this grade should have a solid foundation in lead climbing and sports climbing techniques. At the time Requiem was the hardest rock climb in the world. Oct 12, 2021 · On September 4, Neil Gresham grabbed the first ascent of Lexicon (E11 7a) at Pavey Ark in the UK’s Lake District. 12d, also known as 7c in the French grading system, is an extremely challenging level of difficulty in sports climbing or lead climbing. lba ubsk chzr aax zfggph zxwt rdqu ixwmjcc eadgk snpye ursf wjqr ysv dtr liyskyw